And he marched them up to the top of the hill……

 

Clifford's Tower on top of it's own little hill

Clifford’s Tower on top of it’s own little hill

10th June 2013

That’s that grand old duke of York again – but I don’t think this is the hill he marched his 10,000 men up and down, I’m pretty sure they wouldn’t all have fitted anyhow.

There was a group of school children visiting Clifford’s Tower just ahead of me. Some of them were running up the stairs and along the ledges without a care in the world but a few of the girls were quite hesitant about it all – I have to say my vote was with the hesitant ones this time. It seems awfully high up without much to hang on to at times. Great views though, and some gory history attached to the tower.

Vintage toys in York Castle Museum

Vintage toys in York Castle Museum

Just across the road from the little hill and tower was one of the places that I enjoyed most, York Castle Museum. There is just so much to see here, in my opinion, an absolute must. I was tripping along down memory lane every few seconds in some places. The Toy Stories exhibition had everyone ‘oohing’ and ‘aahing’ and ‘I remember that-ing’. Meccano, a spirograph, toy ovens and cash registers, it was all there.

Looking down into Kirkgate St in York Castle Museum

Looking down into Kirkgate St in York Castle Museum

The Victorian street of the  Kirkgate exhibition is mind boggling in it’s completeness and the fact that just one man collected everything in it for its educational value, not just for collecting’s sake. John Kirk was the collector and museum founder and the street was recreated in the museum in 1938. The shops are based on real York shops of the Victorian era and it’s just like you walked back in time when you enter them, it’s mesmerizing.

The prison area was again full of heart wrenching stories and   images in what would have been a terribly dark, dank place, although there are beautiful wooden staircases and cute light fittings there now.

I wandered out to have a look at the mill-house but there wasn’t much inside so I sat and actually finished a sketch for once, paint and all. After the peace and quiet of the garden the Sixties exhibition was all loud colours and noise – just as I remember them from my childhood!

Another stop with my York Pass that I thoroughly enjoyed was a walk through Fairfax House, dating from the 1700’s, was renovated in 1762 to be part of Viscount Fairfax daughter’s dowry, although she never married. Amazingly, when it was obtained by the York Civic Trust, after being used as a cinema and dance hall for 50 years, they found few structural changes had been made and now the house is much as it was back in the 1770’s. It’s a gorgeous house full of beautiful pieces collected by Noel Terry, apparently a well known collection of 18th century furniture and clocks.  There were no photos allowed, which I don’t like, but there were people in all the rooms who were happy to share their knowledge and love of the house with me. I like talking to the volunteers when they’re around instead of just wandering through without any background; usually they are older people with a real passion for the place who love a chat – good value!!

 

York Roman Baths

York Roman Baths

Another set of roman bath ruins in York are in the basement area of one of the hotels. It wasn’t very well presented or looked after but it seems to be privately owned so maybe that’s why – hardly worth the time or money to visit, but you never know if you never go do you??

Dining in style at Gray's Court, York

Dining in style at Gray’s Court, York

Someone told me about a good place for lunch one day, Gray’s Court, just past the Treasurer’s House. It took a bit of finding  but was just a divine place looking out over their gardens to the York walls – good spot for people watching everyone walking along the top of the wall.

Oh well, one last walk home along the river and the walls today, a few last photos and it’s off to Scarborough next.

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What I saw in York – in one day!

9th June 2013

Micklegate Bar, York

Micklegate Bar, York

York is one of those places with their defensive walls around the city still intact, actually more so than lots of others I’ve seen. There’s a set of stairs not far from the B&B so I headed along the top to the town centre. I came across the Micklegate Bar Museum on the way and stopped in for a quick look – £4 I think off my York Pass total. I’m a shocker for not reading things if I’m not really interested, but I did read it was used for a long time to hold prisoner for their last 24 hours before execution and they were then executed nearby – I’m guessing one of those “speak to the dead” people would get a lot of custom around there. Anyhow, they had lots of costumes that you could dress up in and take photos of yourself looking like a half-baked idiot if you wanted to – I thought about doing it decided that wasn’t really up my alley, so just took a few pics and left again.

St Mary's Abbey ruins, York

St Mary’s Abbey ruins, York

York has a wheel, like the London Eye, I didn’t try it out, but it made for some cool photos! Next stop was the Yorkshire Museum, masses of Roman history again, extremely well done, and quite a bit for the natural history buffs, even a skeleton of the poor old dodo bird. The museum is set in the city’s Botanical Gardens with the ruins of a Roman fort dating from about 107AD, St Leonard’s Hospital from about 1200 AD and St Mary’s Abbey built around 1080 all sharing the space. It’s quite a gorgeous place and true to form hundreds of people were out having picnics, walking or just plain old sitting watching the world go by, I just loved the whole place.

At York Minster

At York Minster

Well, the York Minster (cathedral) is right up there on everyone’s list of places you HAVE to see in York – not surprisingly, given my earlier track record, it didn’t rate that highly on my scale. Maybe if the big wall of stained glass windows wasn’t covered for renovation I would have been more impressed but great big ornate cathedrals just don’t do if for me, I think it might have more to do with the religious thing than the buildings themselves. I mean, anyone would agree, it is a work of art, but I tend to always come back to that theme of – what for, why, couldn’t the money be better spent? What I have found now though, is that I like reading the memorial stones, some of them give little bits of stories, they’d have fascinating history behind them if you only knew.

So, having got that one out of the way early I was then able to pick and choose which of the vast number of places my pass would get me into to visit – apparently the York Pass is loaded with well over £100 worth of entry fees – I hadn’t even started to put a dent in it yet.

The blue room (of course) of Treasurer's House, York

The blue room (of course) of Treasurer’s House, York

Not far from the cathedral I found the Treasurer’s House. Way back in the 1500’s it was the treasurer of York Minster’s house, hence the name. It’s a strange sort of place, there are Roman ruins in the basement, which is now a cute little café. The rest of the house has been kept how it was when Frank Green gave it to the National Trust in 1930. He had bought it in 1897 when it was in a sorry state and renovated it to suit his own little vision. From what I could gather he didn’t really live in the flash parts, they were more just for entertaining or for visitors – maybe eccentric would describe him best. Anyhow, it was interesting and the walled garden a great place to sit and have coffee and cake.

I hardly believe how much I saw in one day, but there’s more – Barley Hall, in amongst the little old alleyways with old timber clad buildings hanging over the streets all crooked and cute. Barley Hall was only discovered to be of medieval origins, probably early 1500’s, in the 1980’s – amazing that it has survived all that time isn’t it? It was another quite short visit because there’s not really that much to see, but they have ingeniously geared it towards children, with dress up clothes and games.

Pimm's central!!

Pimm’s central!!

Wow, what a day, I had a simply marvellous day, although I reckon sometimes I must look like one of those clowns in the side-shows, with my mouth open, head constantly going from one side to the other. I felt the walk home needed to be broken in two, my feet were badly in need of a rest, so a stop at the café on the bridge for a Pimms or two and some people watching sounded like a plan!

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I didn’t see the Grand Old Duke of York, just the town.

8th June 2013

The colours are amazing on good days

The colours are amazing on good days

I had a taste of first class train travel today, and I liked it very much. Nice and quiet and roomy, complementary drinks and food, and for some reason, when I booked it, the first class ticket was only £8 more than economy – what’s not to like? I guess the fact it was only a two and a half hour trip was why it didn’t cost much extra for first class, but, wow it was nice for a change.

Cool buildings in York

Cool buildings in York

I also wussed out and got a cab from the station when I arrived, but then went for a few hours wander around the town, so I didn’t feel quite so guilty then. I’m not sure if this is a fitting description, but, to me, York seems a very English city. It’s a university town so that could explain it, but it just seems very tidy and correct and how I expected English cities to be. The people at the B&B were lovely and the town feels the same.

Mind you, it’s a bit like Edinburgh, in that you have to pay to visit most of the interesting places. I bought a 3 day York Pass straight away but will start using it one morning so I get a full three days use. The river banks were full to overflowing this afternoon, it was a beautiful sunny day and they were out making the most of it. I probably take good weather much more for granted than most residents of the UK!

 

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Art in Edinburgh–galleries and t-shirts

6th June 2013

Taking the sun in Edinburgh

Taking the sun in Edinburgh

The centre of Edinburgh really is a lovely place on a nice day, I can imagine it would be awfully cold in winter, especially if the wind was howling up through the middle. The gardens run through the centre of the city, sort of dividing the Old and New Town – I played ladies and had a coffee and cake there this morning while watching the world go by before heading to the Art Gallery.

While I was at the Art Gallery I overheard one of the staff explaining to someone the free shuttle bus between there and their GOMA site.  I’d actually been wondering how to get there, so another problem solved. There was a wonderful thee man band busking outside the gallery while I waited for the shuttle, so even waiting time was put to good use today.

Part of the outdoor land art at Edinburgh Modern Art Gallery

Part of the outdoor land art at Edinburgh Modern Art Gallery

It’s funny how sometimes a grumpy person can make everyone else feel the same way and other times everyone just laughs at them. The guy driving the bus really wasn’t picked for his personality, he had absolutely no interest in anyone or anything on that bus, just grumped every time someone came along to ask a question and drove the bus like a madman. There were lots of half laughs and raised eyebrows along the way, another great people watching episode. Anyway, surprisingly, we all arrived in one piece. Of the modern art museums I’ve visited recently this was probably my least favourite. I’m not sure why but the quirky signs outside grabbed me more than anything else. Caught the courtesy (that’s a misnomer) bus back with mostly the same people and we all commented when we got off that it must have been close to finishing time because his driving was even more speedy this time. Oh well, he gave us something to laugh about.

I wandered in and out of a few souvenir shops back in the city before heading home, what a hard life!!

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