Category Archives: Argentina

Last day in BA

11th January.

Darn, it’s time to leave already! I had until 8pm though before my transfer from the hotel so could spend all day out and about again. I set out for the Museo Nacional de Belles Artes intending to spend a couple of hours there then go sketching in the Recoleta Cemetery afterwards. Well, that plan went astray, before I knew it, it was one o’clock, I was famished and had only just finished looking around the ground floor. I found a nice restaurant not far away for lunch then returned for another couple of hours. I’m blaming the heat for the awful angles on todays pics……….

By then it was too hot to sketch in the cemetery, actually too hot to be outside, so I took a quick look inside the cloisters of the church next door, browsed shops and tried Starbucks for the very first time, before settling at an outdoor bar in the shade for a last quick sketch.

Good thing I headed back to the hotel a little earlier than planned as Diego arrived not long later for my transfer to the airport. Wow, it was so crowded inside and out. The traffic wardens were blowing their whistles non-stop! The driving continued to amaze me, so many drivers don’t seem to take any notice of lane markings or use their indicators – although Diego wasn’t in this category. Yet the traffic seems to flow just fine! I can’t imagine what would happen in Australia if you drove in the middle of two lanes – there would be lots of road rage!

At the airport I ordered a glass of wine with my baguette and thought it was expensive; not sure if they didn’t sell by the glass, but I got a half bottle!! Bit more than I bargained for, but why leave any when I’d paid for it, hehehe.

So, that’s the end of another adventure, I’ve had a wonderful few weeks. Already planning my next one to Chicago for the Urban Sketchers symposium and a couple of weeks in either northern US or Canada in July/August. Hopefully that will keep the wanderlust at bay for a while.

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La Boca and a Tango Show

10th January.

Off to La Boca this morning to visit Museo Benito Quinquela Martin, PROA, and of course to wander around La Boca again. Absolutely love the Benito Martin museum situated in his apartment building, with every room in bright colours and massive outdoor terraces featuring his sculptures. His artwork was wonderful too and I dragged myself away to PROA more from hunger than anything else!

PROA had some really fascinating installations and a great cafe but didn’t grab me in the same way.

La Boca was crowded after lunch as you’d expect, I found a canvas I loved but at US$185, not being sure if it would fit in my bag, and then another $100 or so for framing when I got home, I decided against it and bought a couple of photographic prints instead. Typically am kicking myself now for being so tight, although I’ve framed the prints and all up they cost about a tenth of what the painting would have. Bought a few more presents for those at home and enjoyed a wine at one of the sidewalk cafes before heading back to the hotel to get ready to go out to dinner and a tango show.

I keep telling myself not to go to these touristy show places! But travelling alone it was probably the only way I was going to see tango this time, so I succumbed and joined the other tourists for a sit down dinner and show. Dinner was actually okay and the dancing was great, just the atmosphere of a hundred odd people at big long tables in what you know is a nightly performance puts me off. Anyhoo I’ve seen it now…

Tomorrow is the last day of my holiday, it’s come around so quickly, wishing I could stay longer.

 

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Wandering in San Telmo

9th January.

After a slow start, and a sketch in the courtyard,  I went first to Museo de Arte Moderno which wasn’t far away and then wandered around San Telmo. Visited the old San Telmo markets, a big old building with lots of little stalls inside. I found a tiny little miniature camera that I wanted to buy but didn’t have enough pesos and the owner didn’t have enough change for my $US so put that on my list to go back for another day. I had a couple of slices of the Buenos Aires version of pizza in the afternoon, lots and lots of cheese, which the driver from last night had warned me about. He’s of Italian heritage and seemed a little condescending about their pizzas, lol. Footsore and hot but happy I bought some nibbles and wine from a shop near the hotel and relaxed by the pool and in one of the courtyards well into the evening. I have bigger plans for tomorrow, hopefully I’ll get an earlier start!

 

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Buenos Aires revisited

8th January

Well Ushuaia, like a lot of places that practice the siesta tradition, doesn’t seem to wake early! After a quick walk to Ushuaia Extremo to try and return my hired jacket I went back to the harbour, to a cafe Katie had told me about that opened early, Ramos Generales. I had to cool my heels for a little, but I wasn’t the only one lining up for a warm place to sit, a coffee and to get back in touch with the world. A whole heap of us ended up there, all head down with laptops or phones in front of us, their free wi-fi is a sure way to entice those just back from Antarctica.

I eventually left to take my jacket back and pick up some souvenirs before collecting my luggage and making my way to the airport for a 4pm flight.  It was like “old home week” in the town and at the airport though, running into people from the ship all day. Was lovely to sit with Marijke for a while at the airport to catch up on the last few days as we’d been separated for the latter part of the voyage. Another 2 women sharing weren’t getting along and the only solution was for one of them to swap with one of us – so I lost my bestest roomie, but gained another who was nice too, but it just wasn’t the same. The only problem was the 4pm flight turned into 6pm, then 7pm, and eventually 7:30pm – I heard this wasn’t uncommon.

I was so pleased I’d booked through a travel agent, had transfers organized and could keep in touch with Luis from the agency to update him during the wait. Walking through arrivals at almost midnight to see a driver holding a sign with my name on it was such a relief. Although I didn’t take it all in when I arrived, the Patios de San Telmo was a darling place to spend the next few days. I fell in love and could have happily spent all day every day just hanging out there – I didn’t!

 

 

 

 

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