Monthly Archives: November 2013

Just two places in a whole day – leisurely sightseeing

6th – 7th July 2013

Well, I timed that right – feeling much better for a week-end full of exploring Paris!

The Louvre, Paris

The Louvre, Paris

And just because I could, I caught the metro again, but, guess what – the thrill is quickly wearing off, lol. Getting off at the Louvre though was still a tad exciting, not that I had planned on going inside, I was just happy to look around the outside. Somewhere in my travels I’d heard about the Batobus, a hop on hop off boat that stops near all the touristy places along the river. So, towards the river I headed and sure enough, there was one of the Batobus just waiting for me to buy a ticket and hop on board.

Ahha. there it is!

Ahha. there it is!

To make it even better, the next stop was the Eiffel Tower, just where I wanted to go. It’s a wonderful feeling, motoring along the Seine and seeing it come into view, getting larger and more impressive the closer you get, craning your neck back to get a better view. I wonder what it is about the Eiffel Tower that makes such a strong connection with people of all ages and backgrounds. I know it’s fascinated me for years, and some of the younger ones in my language classes have said they’d happily set up camp beneath the tower if they could.

Playing games in Paris

Playing games in Paris

Being extra vigilant, because of all the warnings of pickpockets, I went with the flow up the stairs and across the street to just stand there and look. Wow, I was really here, at the Eiffel Tower, on my own too, so I could sit and look all day if I wanted to. Which is pretty much what I did for the next few hours, I drifted around the area looking from all directions. I sat and had a chocolate crepe across near the carousel, watched the people with the three cups and a little object hustling people for their money, was asked fifty times if I spoke English by girls trying to get me to sign something – think the green eyes and blonde hair might have been a give-away, but I just kept shaking my head and they eventually went away, sat on the grass behind the tower  sketching and people watching, went down by the river for a wine and late lunch.

Musee d'Orsay, Paris

Musee d’Orsay, Paris

Deciding I’d best not set up camp just yet, I ‘batobused’ back to the Musee d’Orsay where I spent more hours happily strolling through what I’ve just learnt was once a railway station. Degas, Monet, Manet, Sisley and even the Whistler were some of my favourites I found, but really, there’s too many paintings and sculptures that intrigue me to remember even half of them. Even good old Charles Rennie Mackintosh was represented, and Gaudi too – whose work I’m so looking forward to seeing in Barcelona.

Sylvia's lock, Paris

Sylvia’s lock, Paris

Not really having a plan, and feeling a tad foot-sore by now, I crossed the river via one of Paris’s bridges with all the locks attached, the Pont des Arts , I think, for a little wander along the other side before making my way back ‘home’. Oh, it was nice to arrive at the bar down the end of the street where Josette’s flat is, sit out the front with a cold glass of wine, a few peanuts and just relive my day. Even better was knowing I can do it all again tomorrow if I like – but maybe tomorrow I’ll go somewhere else!

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Tummy trouble – arghhhhh!

3rd – 5th July 2013

Warning, warning – discontent and upset approaching!!!

All I can say is you must have to be awfully sick to die. For the last few days I’ve felt like death warmed up and it’s been terribly hard work to keep going to school and do a little sightseeing. All I’ve felt like doing is curling up on the bed and sleeping – in between visits to the bathroom. I’m positive my sickness has been food related – and not food I’ve bought in the city either.

I think I’ve worked out a system though for not eating suspect food at my place of residence. If Josette is eating, I eat, if she’s only feeding it to me and has no intention of eating with me I don’t eat. And tell me, if you knew someone had been sick for three days would you try and give them bought frozen fish fingers for dinner? Bloody hell, I wouldn’t feed anyone frozen fish fingers at any time, let alone someone who is paying me board and is suffering in the tummy already. Thank goodness for Deb and the people in my own class at school, without them around I think I would have just sat in a corner and cried.

Courtyard of LSI Paris building

Courtyard of LSI Paris building

Okay – enough said, but I’ve spoken to the school and hopefully things will improve next week, because, who wants to be in Paris and only see the inside of every toilet you pass? And to top it all off, I’ve lost my coat in the last 3 days too – the one I bought in Brighton after I left my first one in a restaurant somewhere!!

Rocking up to a chemist and getting antibiotics over the counter from a pharmacist who claims not to speak English but then gives me the instructions in near perfect English was an experience worth remembering. I learnt that day that asking a French person if they speak English is just asking for trouble. Thank goodness I followed up with my really quite terrible French and was rewarded with smiles and helpfulness.

Fountain just donw the road

Fountain just donw the road

I headed back to the 12th straight after school one afternoon, to, I’m not sure what, maybe feel sorry for myself, explore my ‘hood or be close to the loo. I ended up doing all three, then bought myself a new light coat and sketched the fountain just down the road too – pretty good for feeling like c#%p. I just love the typical Paris apartment blocks, especially the ones with the tall grey rooflines, I seem to walk around with a permanent crick in my neck from always looking up.

I got my first glimpse of La Tour Eiffel from the Jardin des Tuileries one afternoon on our way to see the Musee de L’Orangerie. It just sort of crept up on us and all of a sudden I realized the spire I could see way way off in the distance couldn’t be anything else. Wow, what a moment, think this was when I finally believed I was in Paris!

My first view of the Eiffel Tower

My first view of the Eiffel Tower

Then to see the two rooms of Monet’s Water Lilies was just the icing on the cake.

Even before we got into the gallery I had another nice surprise. Deb and I were waiting in line when I saw a woman I recognised, but couldn’t remember for a little while where I knew her from. Then her family joined her and we all realised we’d sat together on the Eurostar last weekend. What’s the chances of running into them again at one of the lesser known galleries in Paris?

Claude Monet’s Nymphéas (Water Lilies) paintings were captivating – two large oval rooms with his gorgeous canvas panels lining the walls. We could, both of us, have sat for hours, I think, just looking at them. We stayed so long there that we didn’t see much of the rest of the gallery before closing time, but we both left happy that we’d had time to really sit and savour Monet.

 

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Starting to look around Paris

2nd July 2013

I’ve had so many ‘pinch me’ moments since I started this trip and my daily commute to school was right up there some days. Catching the yellow line of the Paris metro from my station of Reuilly-Diderot, going past places with names like Gare de Lyon, Bastille, Musee de Louvre, then emerging at Tuileries to the sight of a bank of typically French buildings on one side and the Jardin de Tuileries on the other was part of my dream come true. I know the metro is not exactly tourist fodder but the fact that it was my daily routine helped me feel I was actually living in Paris and not just visiting for a few days.

Hotel de Ville, Paris

Hotel de Ville, Paris

The school organises outings most afternoons and on Tuesday we caught the metro en masse to the Hotel de Ville – or actually we tried to but ended up getting split into three groups with most of us not even knowing where we were heading. One group caught the metro and went straight there, another group, of course I had to be in this one, got spooked along the way because our guide, Robin, had gone missing so we got off a couple of stations along, and the last group, with our guide, were on the train, then got off again because someone was missing. Thank goodness we spent a few minutes trying to work out what to do and when the next train came along we spotted Robin inside so on we rushed and didn’t let him out of our sight again all afternoon!! I’m sure he was wondering why we were hanging so close, but at least we didn’t get lost.

Sitting among the wildflowers near Hotel de Ville

Sitting among the wildflowers near Hotel de Ville

The area in front of the Hotel de Ville was full of little gardens of wild flowers and sun loungers, part of some special exhibition and so unexpected in the centre of Paris, just gorgeous. Only a few minutes walk later and we were in front of the Notre Dame, I couldn’t believe it! Those of us new to Paris did the obligatory oohs and aahs and took miles of photos. I was quite surprised that the sixteen year olds were as interested and awe-struck as I was, but there you go, some things transcend age don’t they. We made our way back to the River Seine and the Ponte Neuf via a few other amazing but not quite so famous buildings.

Then, bloody hell, he left us to make our own way home!! I got home with no worries but poor Deb got side-tracked shopping and ended up miles and miles from where she thought she was. Luckily though, the woman she asked for directions was really helpful, even going with her to the metro to make sure she got on the right train.

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The next big step!!

30th June – 1st July 2013

I did want to cross the English Channel by ferry, but to get to Paris would have been an awfully long slog, and I decided to take the Eurostar instead. So, back I choofed to St Pancras; the station is massive, more like an airport than a train station in some ways.

The butterflies were very active in my tummy, going to France and especially Paris felt more like a huge task than an adventure. I’m sure I don’t know how all these young ones do it with limited funds and seemingly no worries at all. Maybe they’re just like my two boys, think they’re 10 foot tall and bulletproof. Me, I don’t necessarily have any concrete worries, just a huge anxiety that I won’t be able to cope with the language or find my way.

Anyhow, I took the easy way out when I got to Gare du Nord and caught a cab to my host family’s house in the 12th Arrondissement. Josette was to be my host family for the next two weeks while I attended French lessons at LSI in Paris. I really was hugely excited to be actually living and going to school in Paris but was so nervous it wasn’t at all funny.

Thank goodness, Jo’s daughter, who speaks English, was there to translate for us and then Jo walked with me to the Metro station just down the road to show me which line to take and how to buy tickets. I was a little bemused later on when she managed to convey to me that her (20 years younger) toyboy boyfriend, that her family didn’t know about, was coming to spend the night. Call me strange but using bathrooms in close proximity to people I don’t know, sends me into a real tailspin!! So, as I was expecting it to be just the two of us living in her VERY tiny two bedroom flat, to find there’d also be a 42 year old guy coming and going was more than a little daunting. And he wasn’t at all sociable, he kept coming up to the kitchen, fixing himself another drink then going back down to their bedroom and talking on the phone, he barely even acknowledged me when we were introduced. To make matters worse she had the futon made up in to a bed in the tiny lounge as she was expecting another paying guest in a weeks time, so there wasn’t even anywhere comfortable to sit.

I’ve thought long and hard about journaling the bald truth about my stay with Jo or glossing over it, but, this is my story so I’m going to tell it how I saw it! I think the fact that she didn’t spend much time at home that first week and fed me left-over food that I’m sure made me sick clouded my impressions of Paris. I was so looking forward to being there, and really tried to love it, but it just didn’t happen for the first couple of weeks.

Breakfasting in Rue St Honore while waiting for school to start

Breakfasting in Rue St Honore while waiting for school to start

Anyhow, next morning I managed to get myself into the city on the metro okay, and being about an hour early for school (just in case I got lost), I found where I had to go in Rue St Honore, among the fashion houses, then parked myself at a café and had a light French breakfast. I must admit, I’ve just made that sound so easy and casual, but again, my tummy was in absolute knots of anxiety.

Thank goodness there were other people going into the school building when I got there, I didn’t have a clue which one in the courtyard was theirs! Bloody hell, I make myself miserable with doubts at times for such silly reasons. But… I wasn’t the only nervous one around, about 10 of us ended up standing around outside the school door waiting for something to happen when another couple of students waltzed up the stairs and just went inside – obviously the place was open, just that none of has had tried the door. With lots of laughs we all trooped inside and the LSI staff set about organizing us into our classes. When I think back now, I wonder what I was so fearful about, because, really it wasn’t difficult at all.I just loved my first day at French school, the other people in my classes and the teachers were all so interesting and friendly. My morning class got to about 12 or 13 most days, mostly quite young people, 16 to 25 with a few of us older ones thrown in to the mix. There were Brazilians, Chinese, Japanese, Americans, a real melting pot and it was completely fantastic.

I couldn’t even manage to get out of the building on my own the first lunch time, a woman outside called out that I had to press a button to open the door!! That woman turned out to be an Australian, Deb, and we became fast friends for the rest of her stay. She’s a teacher from Sydney and reminded me so strongly of Jenny from my Italy tour last year that I just had to ask if she had a sister named Jenny – no, she didn’t, but they were so very similar in looks and personality, it was uncanny.

Gorgeous cakes everywhere

Gorgeous cakes everywhere

We ended up doing almost a marathon to buy ourselves a notebook each from a shop she thought wasn’t far away – ooops, we were almost running on the way back, but we made it okay. Although Deb was in a more advanced class than mine our times coincided so we spent lots of time together during our lunch breaks and after school.

So, one day down and I was feeling so much more at ease, caught the metro ‘home’ like a local, stopped at the patisserie just down the road for a treat then did some groceries at the supermarket around the corner. Bring on Paris!!

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