Monthly Archives: December 2013

Cute apartment with a view

13th July 2013

Eiffel Tower from apartment

Eiffel Tower from apartment

I just love my little apartment; it has two sets of french doors leading out to a tiny balcony with a weeny cute table and chairs – and a view of the Eiffel Tower!!! I guess it’s quite a distance away, but still, it’s right there, and I feel like I just want to sit there all week looking at it. And…. I didn’t get lost on the way either – pretty good I’d say. Booked through airbnb for the first time, and haven’t had any problems, everything is as advertised and the owner seems nice. Booking.com will wonder what has happened to me the last couple of weeks, it’s the longest I haven’t used them since I left home!

First thing was to buy a few supplies, easier said than done, I’ve found, sometimes. I’m pretty sure the person I asked about a supermarket told me there was one just up a side street. I didn’t find it, but there’s a little fruit and veg shop, a boulangerie and a couple of bars really close by, so in the end the essentials were fairly easy to come by.  My building has a café on the ground floor too so it was all looking good enough to go exploring for the rest of my first afternoon in the 19th.

Paris from Parc des Butte Chaumant

Paris from Parc des Butte Chaumant

As the Parc des Buttes Chaumant was only a block away it seemed a good place to spend the afternoon. It’s very much a natural parkland, so different to the highly manicured gardens in the city that it felt almost like I was in a different city altogether – except for the stunning vista of the Sacre Coeur from one of  the highest points. Drawing the Temple de la Sibylle kept me occupied and happily observing  the comings and goings for quite a while. Then just walking through the lovely gardens helped me feel more settled than I’ve been for the last two weeks and although I haven’t completely recovered from my tummy troubles I’m hoping this week to find the Paris I came here looking for.

To cap off a pretty smooth day I enjoyed practicing my French with the owner at the bar where I stopped for a wine on the way home. Then – nibblies on the balcony for dinner while soaking up the fact that, wow, here I am, in Paris, watching the Eiffel Tower put on it’s nightly light show!!

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Paris – week two

8th July 2013 – my 2nd week in Paris

most of my morning class - we missed you brian

most of my morning class – we missed you brian

Language school was even better the second week, probably because I wasn’t sick most days and looking for toilets every half hour!! I was a bit sad that my mate Deb wasn’t at school this week – she was off swanning around Monet’s garden at Giverny before heading home on Tuesday. However, one of our new classmates, a really interesting, friendly woman from India, Urvashi, joined me for lunch most days. I feel such an ignoramus sometimes; Urvashi speaks, I think, 5 or 6 languages, and here I am just barely learning the basics of my second one.We all seem to be improving – at least in my humble opinion!! I’m not sure how serious some of the young ones are about learning French but they’re certainly good fun and the whole experience has been a truly memorable time.

I’m still struggling to love Paris like I wanted to, but most afternoons I just set out in a different direction an walked and walked, taking in a much as I could. The great thing about Europe is that in summer it stays light for so long and people seem to stay out and about much later, so it still feels quite safe to be out at 8 or 9 o’clock – lots of after school sight-seeing. Half the time I had absolutely no idea where I was or what I was looking at, but that didn’t worry me in the slightest. I’ve learnt you’re never too far from a metro station and I have no trouble using the metro – I even have a weekly Navigo pass now, makes me feel less like a tourist too.

petit palais paris

petit palais paris

I found the Petit Palais one afternoon and had to chuckle at an incident I saw in the café there. A very well dressed Parisian looking lady left her newspaper on the table next to me and wandered off, another woman came along and sat at the table, the first one came back, probably five minutes later, and erupted quite loudly and with lots of gesturing, obviously telling the poor woman that this was her table and she should have known because she left her newspaper there – it’s amazing what you can pick up with just a little of the language and by reading the body language! The other woman didn’t say much, but the funniest thing to hear was she and a few other onlookers all muttering  about damn Parisians!!! Does it mean I’ve seen too many art galleries and museums when the highlight of a visit is the antics in the café and not the artwork? Maybe it’s just that I’m a pleb at heart…..

The School of Fine Arts looked easy to find but again my finely developed sense of direction had a slight hiccup; and it might have been more good luck than good management when I eventually found it hidden away among lovely arched walkways and a courtyard with  statues all around, looking like something straight out of Italy. The exhibition I was going to see, the drawings of Phillipe Hatchet, was a little less than I expected but the buildings more than made up for any disappointment.

courtyard of ecole des beaux arts building paris

courtyard of ecole des beaux arts building paris

I had the most divinely rich chocolate mousse one afternoon, it was soooooo rich and I felt terrible after I licked the jar clean ate just some of it very daintily – but it really was wickedly yummy. I kept up my habit of visiting the patisserie on the way back to Jo’s, if I wasn’t too late, and worked my way through their choice of perfectly presented little cakes. It seems such a shame to eat them, they look so pretty, but I do my best, heeheehee; thank goodness for all the walking I do. I’ve also become a bit of a regular at the supermarket and the bar around the corner, where I have a little chat in French with the cashiers and waiters most days.

Josette took me with her one evening for a meal with some of her family and friends. They had tables set up in the apartment building’s courtyard, among beautiful plants and flowers, a few other residents coming or going, calling out to each other, lots of great food and wine, guitar playing and singing, everyone talking and laughing – just an incredibly lovely evening, one of the ones that make travelling and meeting new people so special.

with josettes family n friends in Paris

with josettes family n friends in Paris

My last day of school was a little sad, the kids made sure we took heaps of photos, although we all missed Brian, our Texan classmate who is trying just as hard as I am to love and adjust to life in Paris. Mind you, I’m only passing through, Brian has made the move to live here sort of permanently, so I hope he settles in soon.

Also, I’m rather excited to be moving to my own little apartment (well, mine for a week), in the 19th arrondissement, near the Parc des Buttes Chaumont – another chapter of my Paris stay.

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More easy Paris sightseeing

7th July 2013

Place Charles de Gaulle, Paris

Place Charles de Gaulle, Paris

Off to the Arc de Triomphe today where I took half an hour to actually find how to get across to the monument. But see, there’s usually an upside to these little challenges; I got to see it from all sides, and I found a nice place for lunch. Somewhere around my circumnavigation I came across the steps going down to the underpass, and, wonder of wonders, emerged in the centre of this huge roundabout.

Ahha, I really was there

Ahha, I really was there

Nine euros and quite a few stairs later I was at the top of the Arc de Triomphe looking out over Paris. It’s pretty magical to see from this vantage point, with streets radiating out from every side. Of course the arch is more than just a great vantage point and the museum attached, tracing the building and history of the monument, is well worth the visit. Coming back down to earth again, I happened to be there for a wreath laying ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, so that was lovely too.

Josette received another boarder yesterday, a lovely Polish girl, Katarzyna, who is here to attend some art appreciation classes at the Louvre for a week!! How cool would that be, guided study tours and unlimited entry to the Louvre. Musical beds last night – Katarzyna now has the little single bedroom, I’ve been upgraded to Josette’s bedroom and Jo and friend now sleep upstairs in the living room on the futon.

We were treated to a wonderful, fun, noisy evening with some of Jo’s friends – even just one night good food, and great company can make such a difference to your enjoyment of a place. Looking forward to my second week of french lessons without the drama of being sick.

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