Category Archives: Mid-life travel

A few days in Penzance

Had another good walk to my new place today, nice easy directions; just keep following the road around along the ocean until you get to the place called “The Corner House“. And to make it even better I passed the Harbour, a wet dock and a dry dock, the Jubilee Baths and the Dolphin Inn as well as a couple of other hotels with less interesting looks about them.

The Corner House, Penzance

The Corner House, Penzance

The Corner House is a lovely place, and the owners, Diane and Norman, are both wonderful. One day we were talking about the guesthouse and Diane was saying she tells everyone she used to be six foot tall before they bought it but she’s been worn down so far she’s barely five foot now – and then she just about wet herself laughing. I was in stitches laughing at her laughing at her own joke and Norman was just standing there looking at both of us as if we were demented. Maybe you had to be there, but it was funny. Anyhow, their place was immaculate, gorgeously furnished and just perfect.

Morrab Gardens, Penzance, England

Morrab Gardens, Penzance, England

They showed me a way to get to the town through Morrab Gardens that I ended up taking every day, it’s full of sub-tropical trees and plants, and felt a bit like our old Botanical Gardens in Brisbane. The town centre itself has a few streets with different types of shops, one has lots of really old places that are a bit different, the high street has all the normal shops and then Chapel St has the buildings and shops that are a bit special. Not a very good description is it but it’s hard to describe – it’s just one of those places that struck an immediate chord with me for some unknown reason and I loved my stay there.

I had originally booked three nights but after my first day there I extended it for another, and could have stayed longer if I had the time. With a name like Penzance, it would nearly have to be a good place, don’t you think?

St. Ives harbour

St. Ives harbour

I had a few places on my list for this part of Cornwall, and first stop was St. Ives because that’s where the first bus that came along was heading. It became a haunt for artists back in the 1920’s or 30’s and is still full of artists and galleries. I enjoyed a wander through the Tate St. Ives, they had two major exhibitions on, and the building is pretty amazing too. I bought my first souvenir there, a rubber with Tate written on it, a whole £1.50. The Tate also looks after the Barbara Hepworth museum in St. Ives; her work and studio were interesting but I was really taken with what I read of her life while I was there, sounds like she was one very interesting woman who lead an intriguing life.

If there was more white paint around you would think you were in Greece, very cute narrow little streets with buildings all on top of each other and the harbour was beautiful; golden sand and turquoise water. It was also one of the hottest days I’ve had while I’ve been here which made it even nicer. It was easy to spend all day wandering and looking. Not, however, so easy to not buy anything – but, I’m pleased to say I resisted all temptation!

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Day out in Exeter

Back to Exeter today, the plan was to see the underground passages early then find the historic quayside and join what they call a “red-coat walking tour” around the quay area. Seems to be a recurring theme at the moment, but the plan had to be revised, the passages thing was all booked out until 3 in the afternoon and the only red-coat tour for the day was at 2 in the afternoon. After booking in for the passages tour I headed off for the quay area – had a map from the tourist centre and the maps thing on my phone going and still got bamboozled. Some people I know would say they’re not surprised at this, but honestly, I’m not usually this bad at finding my way around! With more good luck than good management and by stalking following a couple of people who had a map and looked like tourists I eventually got there.

Shops along the quay at Exeter

Shops along the quay at Exeter

It’s another nice place, although very quiet compared to the town centre, and has the old storage things under the cliffs now housing crafty shops. Did a bit of a walk through and stopped for lunch at a coffee shop there before braving the walk back to town. I came to an intersection and the sign for the town centre was pointing to the right when I had been expecting to turn left – I really must have looked lost or befuddled because a woman stopped and asked me if I needed help. When I explained, she just laughed and said the sign had been messed with and that I should go left, yay me!

I AM SO PEEVED RIGHT NOW!!! For the second time now I’ve lost a post – but, on the bright side, at least now I know how I did it. It’s all to do with using an iPad and happens when I’m adding photos. Soooooo, this will be a quick catch-up!

You’d think with over an hour to spare and ample shops around I’d have been in seventh heaven but this having to carry everything with you all the time has really put a dampener on my shopping skills – unbelievable, I know, but true! As good as it got was replacing my keyboard and get another charger for my phone/iPad. Note to others, those keyboard you have to plug into a computer to charge aren’t much good when you don’t have access to computers, good old Apple make one that runs on AA batteries!

Underground passages Exeter, sorry about the dodgy pic, didn't want to get left behind

Underground passages Exeter, sorry about the dodgy pic, didn’t want to get left behind

The highlight of Exeter for me was the underground passages tour. From the street you go down maybe 50 stairs to the shop and exhibition room where they have a few interactive displays for the technically minded, a video you can stand in front of that shows you “flying” through the tunnels, artifacts recovered from the area and the usual poster information. Before the tour starts they show a video explaining the history of the passageways then it’s on with the hard hats and follow the leader.

The passages were built back in the 14th or 15th century; parts of Exeter had a fresh water supply that originated from springs outside the city walls and ran through lead pipes. To make maintaining the pipes easier they dug deep ditches, lined the walls with bricks, built a roof over the top and ran the pipes through what is now the underground passages. I think they are now about 4 – 6 meters underground, very cool don’t you think?

We hadn’t gone more than 10 steps before I had my first “thunk”, thank goodness for the hard hat; from then on I adopted this funny stooped over waddle for the rest of the tour. I don’t think we really covered much ground but passed a few intersections and a couple of alcoves they think had been used as defensive lookouts during wars – not sure if the passages were as deep then or not. The guide was great, we stopped a few times and she’d let us know where we were in relation to landmarks at street level or tell us different bits and pieces. In one section there is a bit of a detour you can take that is extremely low, out of the ten or so people only one young Asian girl took the challenge, and she duck walked through! The guide was laughing, she said she’d never had anyone do that before, everyone always crawls on hands and knees. Anyhow, I loved every minute of it, just wish I had been last in line so I could have taken a few decent photos, but you can’t have everything, can you.

So, back to Exmouth on the train, dinner at the Beach Pub and another great day done and dusted.

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Things I should write about before I forget – No. 3

Forget to put this in my Portsmouth post; when I arrived back at Ashby’s I let myself in the back door and could hear some-one just about bringing the house down snoring. Another woman was coming in through the front at the same time and we just looked at each other and burst out laughing. The owner, who is rather a large man, but lovely, was sitting in one of the lounge chairs with his head dropped way back dead to the world.

Without disturbing him we sat and chatted for quite a while, she’s an American, travelling alone too and had come the opposite way to me so we swapped stories on where we’d been. She gave me a few good tips too. If someone dodgy looking asks her questions she answers them with “sprecken ze deutch?” and makes out she’s German, says no-one messes with Germans!!! And I can’t remember the others now, hopefully I will, because they were good tips – see, this is why I need to write stuff down before I forget.

Anyhow, we were there chatting for a good half hour before old mate woke and joined us for a chat. Somehow they started talking about little known facts, they said something about there always being a “green man” somewhere in the windows or decorations of cathedrals – strange, I know, and I’m not likely to ever find out if it’s true as churches and cathedrals are not high on my lists. Next thing you know the owner toddled off and came back a few minutes later with two pages printed for each of us with little known English laws; that kept us amused for a good while then.

Just another one of the little things that keep it interesting!

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The consequences of not getting lost

Got the train to Exeter okay, then another to Exmouth and found the way to my new abode – much better at following directions and the blue line this time! Also, this one really was only a 10 minute walk from the station. So, here I am, all pleased with myself at having found it without any drama – try the door, ring the bell, wait, knock on door, wait, look around, wait, ring the bloody bell again – WTF, who does this?, takes bookings and then goes out for the day????

Exmouth beachfront looking decidedly overcast and cold!

Exmouth beachfront looking decidedly overcast and cold!

You know how we think this travelling thing is all beer and skittles? Picture this, I’m standing on the corner of two streets, right across from the ocean, gale force winds blowing from the Antarctic, or maybe it’s the Arctic up here, freezing my hands and everything else off and can’t get anyone to answer the door or either of the two phone numbers I have. Oh, and I sent a text and got no reply to that either.

So, ring booking.com, they’re not much help either, she tries the same numbers I’ve tried, and, surprise, surprise, she can’t get any answer either. The girl at booking.com asks me to wait a half hour and if we can’t get hold of anyone then she will find somewhere else for me to stay.

Well, what’s a girl to do? Go to the pub of course! Conveniently located just one block back was one of the little English pubs I’ve found to be a good place to eat or just have a drink while researching. This one was called “the Beach” and was really quaint.

That wasn’t too difficult, nice warm English pub, glass of red and when I eventually pried myself out of there – someone to let me in at Ash Hotel, although she did have to make a couple of phone calls to the owner before we got organized with my room. Hmmm, this is why they say to make sure you have plenty of daylight hours when arriving at a new place!

Yay, nice room and free wifi that works, A pub down the road for dinner, I’m set!

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Filed under England, Mid-life travel, Travel