Category Archives: Mid-life travel

The next big step!!

30th June – 1st July 2013

I did want to cross the English Channel by ferry, but to get to Paris would have been an awfully long slog, and I decided to take the Eurostar instead. So, back I choofed to St Pancras; the station is massive, more like an airport than a train station in some ways.

The butterflies were very active in my tummy, going to France and especially Paris felt more like a huge task than an adventure. I’m sure I don’t know how all these young ones do it with limited funds and seemingly no worries at all. Maybe they’re just like my two boys, think they’re 10 foot tall and bulletproof. Me, I don’t necessarily have any concrete worries, just a huge anxiety that I won’t be able to cope with the language or find my way.

Anyhow, I took the easy way out when I got to Gare du Nord and caught a cab to my host family’s house in the 12th Arrondissement. Josette was to be my host family for the next two weeks while I attended French lessons at LSI in Paris. I really was hugely excited to be actually living and going to school in Paris but was so nervous it wasn’t at all funny.

Thank goodness, Jo’s daughter, who speaks English, was there to translate for us and then Jo walked with me to the Metro station just down the road to show me which line to take and how to buy tickets. I was a little bemused later on when she managed to convey to me that her (20 years younger) toyboy boyfriend, that her family didn’t know about, was coming to spend the night. Call me strange but using bathrooms in close proximity to people I don’t know, sends me into a real tailspin!! So, as I was expecting it to be just the two of us living in her VERY tiny two bedroom flat, to find there’d also be a 42 year old guy coming and going was more than a little daunting. And he wasn’t at all sociable, he kept coming up to the kitchen, fixing himself another drink then going back down to their bedroom and talking on the phone, he barely even acknowledged me when we were introduced. To make matters worse she had the futon made up in to a bed in the tiny lounge as she was expecting another paying guest in a weeks time, so there wasn’t even anywhere comfortable to sit.

I’ve thought long and hard about journaling the bald truth about my stay with Jo or glossing over it, but, this is my story so I’m going to tell it how I saw it! I think the fact that she didn’t spend much time at home that first week and fed me left-over food that I’m sure made me sick clouded my impressions of Paris. I was so looking forward to being there, and really tried to love it, but it just didn’t happen for the first couple of weeks.

Breakfasting in Rue St Honore while waiting for school to start

Breakfasting in Rue St Honore while waiting for school to start

Anyhow, next morning I managed to get myself into the city on the metro okay, and being about an hour early for school (just in case I got lost), I found where I had to go in Rue St Honore, among the fashion houses, then parked myself at a café and had a light French breakfast. I must admit, I’ve just made that sound so easy and casual, but again, my tummy was in absolute knots of anxiety.

Thank goodness there were other people going into the school building when I got there, I didn’t have a clue which one in the courtyard was theirs! Bloody hell, I make myself miserable with doubts at times for such silly reasons. But… I wasn’t the only nervous one around, about 10 of us ended up standing around outside the school door waiting for something to happen when another couple of students waltzed up the stairs and just went inside – obviously the place was open, just that none of has had tried the door. With lots of laughs we all trooped inside and the LSI staff set about organizing us into our classes. When I think back now, I wonder what I was so fearful about, because, really it wasn’t difficult at all.I just loved my first day at French school, the other people in my classes and the teachers were all so interesting and friendly. My morning class got to about 12 or 13 most days, mostly quite young people, 16 to 25 with a few of us older ones thrown in to the mix. There were Brazilians, Chinese, Japanese, Americans, a real melting pot and it was completely fantastic.

I couldn’t even manage to get out of the building on my own the first lunch time, a woman outside called out that I had to press a button to open the door!! That woman turned out to be an Australian, Deb, and we became fast friends for the rest of her stay. She’s a teacher from Sydney and reminded me so strongly of Jenny from my Italy tour last year that I just had to ask if she had a sister named Jenny – no, she didn’t, but they were so very similar in looks and personality, it was uncanny.

Gorgeous cakes everywhere

Gorgeous cakes everywhere

We ended up doing almost a marathon to buy ourselves a notebook each from a shop she thought wasn’t far away – ooops, we were almost running on the way back, but we made it okay. Although Deb was in a more advanced class than mine our times coincided so we spent lots of time together during our lunch breaks and after school.

So, one day down and I was feeling so much more at ease, caught the metro ‘home’ like a local, stopped at the patisserie just down the road for a treat then did some groceries at the supermarket around the corner. Bring on Paris!!

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Filed under France, Mid-life travel, Solo female travel, Travel

More family matters and off to the seaside again

28th & 29th June 2013

The London Road site of Chandler Saddlery

The London Road site of Chandler Saddlery

After picking my new found relative’s brain, I had another little mission in Marlborough the next day – to go find the London Rd address where the Chandlers lived and worked. Sadly, it was an Indian restaurant that has been closed for some time, the building all boarded up and unloved. All the same, it was another connection with Grandma and her family.

I also did a little shopping in preparation for decamping to warmer places. I discovered a clothes store in York called White Stuff with lovely summer skirts and tops. I didn’t buy anything due to lack of space, but…… now, I need to buy cooler clothes and ditch some of the winter ones – and guess what – there’s one in Marlborough, yay!! I was wondering why such a seeming small unimportant town had so many nice clothes places – and it’s just hit me, it would most likely be because of the Marlborough College students – it takes a while sometimes. Wandering the streets, shopping and doing some writing passed the time quickly until I headed off to Folkestone, near Dover. It was a  long, long day to get there, but no hassles, thank goodness.

I was going to book a couple of nights at Dover, but a few people said Folkestone was much more pleasant and not far away. I’m so pleased I listened to them. First impressions of Folkestone weren’t terribly wonderful but when I made the trip to Dover it was very obviously a town struggling.

Along The Leas at Folkestone

Along The Leas at Folkestone

Folkestone reminded me a little of Scarborough, mainly because of the big beautiful old buildings that look like the holiday hotels you read about in English literature of a certain time. For some reason they remind me of the Agatha Christie novels. Quite a number of them along the esplanade and the streets nearby seem to be loved again, but, there’s still many looking quite derelict. The hotel I stayed in was somewhere in the middle, it’s seen better days but it’s not a wreck, a warren of little rooms everywhere, windows that rattle all night and a beautiful view out over the English Channel.

Skipper of our Cliffs of Dover cruise

Skipper of our Cliffs of Dover cruise

I braved the local bus to get to Dover and was lucky enough to find a company running tours to see the cliffs. Seeing as my whole reasoning for leaving for Paris from there was to see them, I guess I’d have been kicking myself if I hadn’t. The tour was in an inflatable boat with only room for the skipper and 7 passengers, all sitting astride seats like saw horses. Being the only single person, I scored the front seat, beside the skipper, which made me feel a little safer. I figured if I started to fly out the side he might shoot out his arm and drag me back.  Not really, but it was pretty cool to be in the front.

Dover played a huge role in WW2 and there are reminders of this all along the cliffs. There’s also a number of long vertical scars running down the cliffs from where ropes have been used to salvage cargo from shipwrecks or where they’ve tried to re-float ships that have come to grief. The skipper was full of information about shipwrecks, war stories and pointing out different landmarks along the way. I was surprised how far along the coast we went, it really was well worth going. Just the ride was awesome, a bit rough in places, but the circle work was great fun.

I don’t know if you can really feel sorry for a city, but if you can, then I feel sorry for Dover. So many people pass through there each year, but no-one seems to stop and it just doesn’t seem to have very much chance of turning things around. But, I’m guessing it’s not going to die while the port is there, I think someone said it’s the busiest port in England.

So, early start again tomorrow – and PARIS!!!!

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Filed under England, Mid-life travel, Solo female travel, Travel

Cruising down the Avon

25th June 2013

I just keep ending up back here!!

I just keep ending up back here!!

Last full day in Bath today and I keep finding new places to see and things to do. I feel a bit like a stalker sometimes, I seem to end up in the same places about four times every day. I’m pretty sure I don’t really go in circles because I keep seeing new things but I must just go back to where I started or something!! Maybe I’ve just got a goldfish 3 second memory – oh, look there’s something new, and again, and again – nah, just joking.

Guildhall Markets, Bath

Guildhall Markets, Bath

Had a look through the Guildhall Markets, there’s a book stall in there that would make a library proud, except you could make a complete mess just by taking one book from the bottom of a couple of stacks. They have books stacked about 6′ high! There’s also a ribbon and button stall with more buttons than you can poke a stick at – thousands, I say, thousands!

The Victoria Art Gallery was a bit different, it had lovely big couches in the middle of some of the rooms. The contents were pretty good too – it wasn’t just all about sitting around doing nothing. The glass collection was fantastic, I’m always a fan of coloured glass or all sorts, some of the bottles were just gorgeous.

Cruising along the Avon from Bath

Cruising along the Avon from Bath

A cruise down the River Avon was a lovely little break away from museums and art galleries. There’s not really that much to see but it was nice just cruising along peeking in people’s back yards. There’s another weir at Bathampton where the boat turns around to go back to Bath.

The captain told the same story about why there are so many ‘River Avon’s’ in England as the guy from my Hadrian’s Wall tour. The Romans kept asking what the rivers were called and the Celts kept telling them ‘Avon’ meaning river. The Romans thought they meant that was the name of the river – so they called them ‘River Avon’. So really they were calling them River River, heeheehee. Doesn’t take much to amuse me at times does it?

I haven’t been very adventurous with dinners in Bath, I found a great place at the uni to eat; so back there again tonight, to sample something different off their menu, before tackling more navigational challenges tomorrow.Stalk

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Not another museum!!

24th June 2013

 Holbourne Museum, cafe and garden

Holbourne Museum, cafe and garden

I decided to walk to the Holburne Museum today, just down the hill, yeah right, it seems much closer in a bus than it actually was! The long walk was a good excuse for an early morning tea at their gorgeous café before starting to look around.

I wonder, if in another hundred years time, museums will be displaying collections donated by people who are alive now? The bulk of the museums items, 4,000 of them, were collected by Sir William Holburne and bequeathed to the people of Bath back in 1882. It amazes me how many of these collections must be around, I’ve seen probably at least 6 examples already where private collections have been the foundation for a city’s museum.

Miniature carving, Holburne Museum

Miniature carving, Holburne Museum

I thoroughly enjoyed this one, there weren’t many people around, I could stand and just look for as long as I liked, without feeling as if I was in the way; and it’s a very diverse collection too. That helps for those like me who get over looking at the same type of thing after a little while! The views from the front windows looking down Great Pulteney Street were some of the best around too, what an address to have had, back in the day.

Pulteney Bridge, Bath

Pulteney Bridge, Bath

I walked into town along Great Pulteney Street and across the Pulteney Bridge, a little like Florence’s Ponte Vecchio, with shops built on the edges. Everywhere you turn over here there’s some great building  or stonework or statues to catch your eye. I’m in awe at the level of workmanship and patience these people must have had.

Short day today, all tuckered out after my over zealous walk this morning. Hope you enjoy the photos.

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Filed under England, Mid-life travel, Solo female travel, Travel