Category Archives: France

Back to the tower

15th July 2013

I called in to the tourist office during my second week in Paris to ask about booking a ticket to go up the Eiffel Tower; the guy I was speaking to actually laughed in my face when I said I wanted it for during the next week. I couldn’t believe how rude he was – “don’t you know Paris is the most visited city in the world, and the Eiffel Tower is the most visited monument in Paris? You have to book months ahead”. So, instead of buying multiple tickets from them I just left with a smile and a “merci”, all the while muttering under my breath about typical bloody Parisians. WELL, I went online and bought a ticket to go up the Eiffel Tower for 3 or 4 days ahead, no trouble at all – and without any snooty attitude, too. So today it’s Centre Pompidou in the morning and Eiffel Tower ride in the afternoon.

breaky while waiting for the centre pompidou to open

brekky while waiting for the centre pompidou to open

Surprisingly, I was too early at the Pompidou, I’m not usually one to arrive before the museums open; must be the excitement of going up the tower later. There’s never a shortage of people to watch over here so I sat and had the yummiest coffee and chocolate croissant for breakfast and took in all the activity around. A woman in long lacy skirts and woolen coat with a couple of wicker baskets floated past the coffee shop a couple of times. After a while she plonked herself down in the middle of the huge cement area in front of the Pompidou, set about unpacking her baskets and began making beaded jewellery – she was still there four hours later when I came out, woolen coat and all in the boiling heat.

Lichtenstein at the Centre Pompidou

Lichtenstein at the Centre Pompidou

The Centre Pompidou houses the modern art gallery among other things and the building is so not Paris, but totally suits its role. The air conditioning barrels and I don’t know what else are on the outside of the building, it’s brightly coloured and very modern looking. I just loved the Roy Lichtenstein exhibition, and was happy when I found plenty of biographical info to read along the way as well as marveling at his style. I did my usual backtracking a few times through the center, I always feel like if I go too slowly to start with I won’t get to see it all, so I wander back and forth all over the place. I think I say this every time I see another modern art gallery, but, this one is really something wonderful.

One of the things I’ve noticed about myself is when I’m on a good thing I stick to it, I’ve mastered trains and subways and rarely venture on to buses. So with that in mind I decided to catch a bus to the Eiffel Tower. I wandered back towards the city and caught the right bus. Everything was going fine until we turned up a street with a truck blocking the way, nothing unusual there, it often happens, but they mostly move on quickly. Not this time, without a word of a lie, it was at least 15 minutes before word filtered to the bus driver that the truck had broken down and we wouldn’t be going anywhere in the foreseeable future. You can imagine what had been going on until then, all this french being thrown around, lots of hand waving and shouting, then it just went quiet and everyone got off the bus and walked away. Bloody hell, I had no idea where I was and my ticket for the tower was for about half an hours time – see what happens when you don’t stick to what you know!!

lift driver going down the eiffel tower

lift driver going down the Eiffel Tower

Best I could do, I figured, was head back towards where I reckoned the river was and go from there. That seemed to be okay but after about ten minutes I decided I wasn’t going to make it in time by walking so hailed a taxi; thank goodness I did because it was still miles away even then. Times like these are when I wish I had better phone service/data plan or something, half the time when I need directions I don’t seem to be able to get service, grrrrrrr. But………….. I got there in time, took miles more photos, pinched myself again and went to the supposed quick line for those with tickets, and waited, and waited and bloody waited. Again word filtered through – they were evacuating all the levels of the tower and not letting anyone else up, no idea why though. You wouldn’t read about it would you? Finally, an hour and a half after my allotted time they started taking people up again. Apparently, (not sure how true it was) a backpack had been found up top which caused a bomb alert, everyone had to be taken down, bomb squad went up – just someones backpack left accidentally, no bomb, grrrrrrr again!

It was all worth it though and wouldn’t have missed it for quids. I liked the fact that you’re not herded up and back with no time to just enjoy, you can stay pretty much as long as you like. I took plenty of time and had a chocolate crêpe at the place near the carousel before I left – more calories than I like to think about, but, oh so yummy.

Not content with my day so far I then wandered pretty much aimlessly over the other side of the river until my feet started protesting too much and I found a metro to take me home. To cap off an eventful day I had the loveliest chat with a woman at ‘my’ bar near the apartment. She grew up in the 19th arrondissement but has lived away for years and was just home for a visit. She had about as much English as I had French, but we chatted for ages with lots of sign language,laughter and a couple of wines – meeting people like that has got to be one of the best parts of travelling.

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Life gets in the way and Bastille Day 2013

Well – it looks like life got in the way of my blog for quite a while, feeling very guilty that my last post was way back, a week before Christmas. I do want to keep writing about my travels, but things may go slowly at times as I get back into a normal life. Just a little one to get back into the swing of things!

14th July 2013 – Bastille Day

La Fete Nationale or le 14 Juillet in Paris and I slept half the morning away! I’d seen helicopters practicing their low fly pasts last week, but today in my area everything was quiet and just like any other Sunday. Thought it would be best to stay away from Champs-Élysées where all the festivities are held so I made my way to Montmartre on the metro to visit the Sacré-Cœur. Every time I navigate my way to a different part of the city on the metro, I feel so very chuffed with myself, it gives me a real boost – probably ill deserved, because I really think it’s very easy! Finding my way from the metro to where I’m going is sometimes a bit hit and miss, but I guess I see plenty of extras on the way, so that’s always a bonus.

The streets leading towards the hill where Sacré-Cœur sits were crowded with tourists and hawkers, lots of little stalls selling all sorts of cheap, and probably nasty, souvenirs, although I wish I could draw and paint even a tenth as well as the people who do the sketches and paintings I see everywhere. As well as the ones with the cups and ball taking money off the gullible among us there were plenty of guys around with their trinkets for sale, spread out on a large piece of circular cloth with a drawstring around the edge – so they could quickly pull the drawstring to close the sack, throw it over their shoulder and run like the wind when they needed to. I’m guessing they’re either illegal immigrants or have no permit to be selling – either way, rather them than me.

Just because it was something a bit different, I caught the funicular to the top and joined the hordes wandering around taking photos and generally just enjoying being there on a beautiful day.I have to admit, I didn’t go inside the church, I was just happy to sit and try my hand at drawing for a while, people watch and remind myself – oh yeah, you’re really in Paris, on Bastille Day, at Sacré-Cœur – WOW!!

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Cute apartment with a view

13th July 2013

Eiffel Tower from apartment

Eiffel Tower from apartment

I just love my little apartment; it has two sets of french doors leading out to a tiny balcony with a weeny cute table and chairs – and a view of the Eiffel Tower!!! I guess it’s quite a distance away, but still, it’s right there, and I feel like I just want to sit there all week looking at it. And…. I didn’t get lost on the way either – pretty good I’d say. Booked through airbnb for the first time, and haven’t had any problems, everything is as advertised and the owner seems nice. Booking.com will wonder what has happened to me the last couple of weeks, it’s the longest I haven’t used them since I left home!

First thing was to buy a few supplies, easier said than done, I’ve found, sometimes. I’m pretty sure the person I asked about a supermarket told me there was one just up a side street. I didn’t find it, but there’s a little fruit and veg shop, a boulangerie and a couple of bars really close by, so in the end the essentials were fairly easy to come by.  My building has a café on the ground floor too so it was all looking good enough to go exploring for the rest of my first afternoon in the 19th.

Paris from Parc des Butte Chaumant

Paris from Parc des Butte Chaumant

As the Parc des Buttes Chaumant was only a block away it seemed a good place to spend the afternoon. It’s very much a natural parkland, so different to the highly manicured gardens in the city that it felt almost like I was in a different city altogether – except for the stunning vista of the Sacre Coeur from one of  the highest points. Drawing the Temple de la Sibylle kept me occupied and happily observing  the comings and goings for quite a while. Then just walking through the lovely gardens helped me feel more settled than I’ve been for the last two weeks and although I haven’t completely recovered from my tummy troubles I’m hoping this week to find the Paris I came here looking for.

To cap off a pretty smooth day I enjoyed practicing my French with the owner at the bar where I stopped for a wine on the way home. Then – nibblies on the balcony for dinner while soaking up the fact that, wow, here I am, in Paris, watching the Eiffel Tower put on it’s nightly light show!!

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Paris – week two

8th July 2013 – my 2nd week in Paris

most of my morning class - we missed you brian

most of my morning class – we missed you brian

Language school was even better the second week, probably because I wasn’t sick most days and looking for toilets every half hour!! I was a bit sad that my mate Deb wasn’t at school this week – she was off swanning around Monet’s garden at Giverny before heading home on Tuesday. However, one of our new classmates, a really interesting, friendly woman from India, Urvashi, joined me for lunch most days. I feel such an ignoramus sometimes; Urvashi speaks, I think, 5 or 6 languages, and here I am just barely learning the basics of my second one.We all seem to be improving – at least in my humble opinion!! I’m not sure how serious some of the young ones are about learning French but they’re certainly good fun and the whole experience has been a truly memorable time.

I’m still struggling to love Paris like I wanted to, but most afternoons I just set out in a different direction an walked and walked, taking in a much as I could. The great thing about Europe is that in summer it stays light for so long and people seem to stay out and about much later, so it still feels quite safe to be out at 8 or 9 o’clock – lots of after school sight-seeing. Half the time I had absolutely no idea where I was or what I was looking at, but that didn’t worry me in the slightest. I’ve learnt you’re never too far from a metro station and I have no trouble using the metro – I even have a weekly Navigo pass now, makes me feel less like a tourist too.

petit palais paris

petit palais paris

I found the Petit Palais one afternoon and had to chuckle at an incident I saw in the café there. A very well dressed Parisian looking lady left her newspaper on the table next to me and wandered off, another woman came along and sat at the table, the first one came back, probably five minutes later, and erupted quite loudly and with lots of gesturing, obviously telling the poor woman that this was her table and she should have known because she left her newspaper there – it’s amazing what you can pick up with just a little of the language and by reading the body language! The other woman didn’t say much, but the funniest thing to hear was she and a few other onlookers all muttering  about damn Parisians!!! Does it mean I’ve seen too many art galleries and museums when the highlight of a visit is the antics in the café and not the artwork? Maybe it’s just that I’m a pleb at heart…..

The School of Fine Arts looked easy to find but again my finely developed sense of direction had a slight hiccup; and it might have been more good luck than good management when I eventually found it hidden away among lovely arched walkways and a courtyard with  statues all around, looking like something straight out of Italy. The exhibition I was going to see, the drawings of Phillipe Hatchet, was a little less than I expected but the buildings more than made up for any disappointment.

courtyard of ecole des beaux arts building paris

courtyard of ecole des beaux arts building paris

I had the most divinely rich chocolate mousse one afternoon, it was soooooo rich and I felt terrible after I licked the jar clean ate just some of it very daintily – but it really was wickedly yummy. I kept up my habit of visiting the patisserie on the way back to Jo’s, if I wasn’t too late, and worked my way through their choice of perfectly presented little cakes. It seems such a shame to eat them, they look so pretty, but I do my best, heeheehee; thank goodness for all the walking I do. I’ve also become a bit of a regular at the supermarket and the bar around the corner, where I have a little chat in French with the cashiers and waiters most days.

Josette took me with her one evening for a meal with some of her family and friends. They had tables set up in the apartment building’s courtyard, among beautiful plants and flowers, a few other residents coming or going, calling out to each other, lots of great food and wine, guitar playing and singing, everyone talking and laughing – just an incredibly lovely evening, one of the ones that make travelling and meeting new people so special.

with josettes family n friends in Paris

with josettes family n friends in Paris

My last day of school was a little sad, the kids made sure we took heaps of photos, although we all missed Brian, our Texan classmate who is trying just as hard as I am to love and adjust to life in Paris. Mind you, I’m only passing through, Brian has made the move to live here sort of permanently, so I hope he settles in soon.

Also, I’m rather excited to be moving to my own little apartment (well, mine for a week), in the 19th arrondissement, near the Parc des Buttes Chaumont – another chapter of my Paris stay.

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